This past March 13, we flew from Newark Liberty International Airport to Oslo, Norway, and on to Bergen, Norway. There we boarded theViking Sky to take a cruise “In Search of the Northern Lights.” Given the unpredictability of the lights, we were happy we saw them in Alta, on a drive from Tromso, Norway, into Finland, on the sports deck of the ship, and even on our own cabin’s balcony (photo below).
We love Viking Cruises. In fact, this was our 6th Viking Ocean cruise and our 7th overall with Viking (one was a river cruise from Amsterdam to Basel, Switzerland). We always feel safe with Viking, so we have been to China, the Holy Land, the Baltic Sea and several other destinations, plus we have made great friends.
The Viking Ocean cruise line began just four years ago (2015), and the Viking Sky was launched just two years ago (2017). Viking appeals to older, well-traveled individuals, so no one appeared concerned when we hit rough seas off Norway. In mid-morning, our ship’s Captain reported to us that the port of Boda, Norway, our next stop, had been closed because of the weather, so he planned to journey on to Stavanger, our next port of call. I love days at sea; I use the time for a massage, the hot tub and just chillin’.
We were just finishing lunch about 2 pm on Saturday, March 23, when the ship started to roll from side to side. Glasses fell off the tables; soda cans spilled from the carts, and dishes began to crash and break. Having had a small power boat for 35 years, we still were unconcerned, since we had become accustomed to heavy seas. We finished our lunch, had some polite conversation with the woman seated next to us, then returned to our suite using the elevators. I did not see the lights flicker, but my husband did, and then green escape lights turned on. No word came over the PA system, so we returned to our cabin to find our two cabin stewards picking up items that had fallen. They directed us to go to our bedroom and close the door. That was fine. My husband already was sitting on the bed reading, while I took out my tablet to read.
At that point (about 2:15 pm in the afternoon), the emergency signal was sounded, and the Captain advised us over the PA system this was NOT a drill. We were to report to our muster stations. We took nothing with us, although my husband had his cell phone on him. We walked down the stairs – no elevators – and everyone was quite calm, except for one woman who was accompanied by a crew member; she was wimpering .
When we arrived at our muster station on the second deck – the Star Theater – we were instructed to put on our life vests, which everyone did. At that point, our Captain advised us that we had lost all the engine power and he had radioed a “mayday.” (Three of the four engines were later restarted.) He said there were three helicopters on their way to evacuate the passengers, and we were waiting for large tugboats to help us get into a port. (We subsequently heard via media reports that five helicopters were working.) I had a fleeting thought – “I hadn’t planned on dying this way.”
The crew was exceptional in their ability to keep everyone calm and happy. We sat only on sofas that were connected to the floor; not on any swivel chairs that might tip over.
I had to go to the bathroom, so a crew member came with me. Only two of the three toilets in the nearest ladies’ room were operational. Eventually, the two working ones stopped working because the power was out. We held our noses when we had to use them. One of the entertainers allowed us to use the dressing room toilet at the front of the theater. That toilet worked for a while, until passengers had made such a mess that the toilet smelled badly.
Meanwhile, two firefighters who were EMTs, an Army soldier, a police officer, and a physician – all passengers – began to assist anyone who needed help. They were wonderful. The physician even took a bucket and rag and washed out the dressing room bathroom, returning the toilet to normal operation once the power was restored. Other toilets also were cleaned and returned to service.
The crew was simply amazing – they made sure everyone had water and snacks. Then, for dinner, the crew distributed sandwiches, and bread for those passengers who were not feeling well enough to eat anything other than bread.
The Captain briefed us every 30 minutes, then every 15 minutes to be sure the passengers stayed calm, and to reassure us he had everything under control. He said he had dropped anchor to keep us from drifting and tossing about. He turned the bow into the wind, which every sailor knows is the correct procedure to take. Then, the captain told us that one of the helicopters sent to rescue us had to be diverted to rescue the crew from a commercial ship that had come to assist us but also became disabled in the heavy seas.
A wonderful woman (from England) sitting next to me in the theater had her iPad with her and she was reading Facebook, Twitter and news reports. Those reports were so sensational and not factual. Our ship was not filling with water, and passengers were not panicked, trying to get off the ship.
Later, in London, we met people whose muster station was “The Restaurant,” also on Deck 2. They told us that although one of the outside doors had opened and some people were drenched, there was no panic even in that area.
We saw another woman (from England) the next day who said she was concerned about the young crew, and she wanted them to be evacuated first. We later learned that the sick and the injured were evacuated first. Then the most elderly people who wanted to get off.
Our small group in the front of the theater did not want to be evacuated by helicopter. With the winds and the storm, we felt it was safer on an anchored ship. We only later learned from news reports that we were only 325 yards from the rocks. The Captain clearly knew this when he dropped the anchor. True that we had none of the four engines working, but the Captain remained calm and reassured us we would be evacuated.
After 24 hours, only half of the 930 passengers had been evacuated. Each helicopter, we were told, could take only 14 passengers at a time, with each passenger being hoisted individually (photo below). We learned that the scariest part of the ordeal was the helicopter hoist and travel back to port.
Two rumors we heard said the captain lost one anchor and the rope/cable was frayed. We did not hear that. The first news reports noted five (5) people were taken to the hospital. This number grew to 30+. Who knows? I guess if you were hit by a piece of furniture, the furniture could have caused an injury. We had none of those experiences.
Another news report quoted a Twitter feed of a woman who said, “The penthouse suite guests were tucked safely and warmly in the theater.” Not true; passengers from every level of the ship were in the theater, as it was their pre-assigned muster station. Rumors abounded as people expressed their own fears and frustrations. I can see where it is easy to believe the stories, but the media sensationalized the actual occurrences.
We did not see this but we were told that prior to docking, the residents of Molde , Norway, lined the shores to welcome the passengers and crew back. Several women held signs with “hearts,” (like the Valentine hearts) and signs that said, “We love you.”
We learned the next morning that paparazzi were lined up to get our first-hand stories. My husband and I decided that we would not comment, except to say we all were fine and the Captain and crew were outstanding. As we boarded the bus the next morning, a local news reporter wanted to talk with everyone on our bus who had stayed on the ship. We all said we would not comment, other than to say the crew was great and everyone was fine.
We wore life jackets for about 23 hours. We have no idea how the chefs and the servers did it, but a full hot lunch (on plastic plates) was served 20 hours in to wearing our life jackets. Then, after about 25 hours, we were permitted to return to our cabins, and a full dinner (on china) was delivered between 5 pm and 6 pm.
Once we made it into port, we were given the option of sleeping in our cabins or going to a hotel. Most of the passengers remained on board the ship.
Much to our amazement, the Viking Band and the entertainers put on a full Beatles tribute show at 7:30 pm in the theater (photo below). We have no idea where the entertainers got the energy to perform, but they were great – Dan, Damian, Becky and Maddie, plus the band members. And the cruise director (from Columbus, Ohio) did himself proud.
We were served champagne as part of the Captain’s Farewell party, When the Captain was introduced, and then he introduced members of the crew, the passengers gave them a standing ovation, with whistling and loud applause. A gentleman from Ireland began a “HIP, HIP, HOORAY” to which all the passengers chimed in. What a moment!
We were thrilled that Mr. Torstein Hagen, the owner of Viking Cruises (photo below), came to thank us – the passengers – for being so understanding, patient and cooperative. He announced that he was refunding everyone’s cruise fare in full, and promised vouchers for another complimentary Viking cruise. (My husband and I have three more cruises booked, including an Ocean cruise to South America, so we can take advantage of the new offer.)
Mr. Hagen, a Norwegian, has acquired some “American slang.” He thought all of us would want to “get out of Dodge!” Mr. Hagan chartered several planes to get passengers from Molde to Oslo, and the Viking Travel Department rebooked everyone to their final destinations the next day. The problem was that many of us did not want to go to our final destinations yet, as we had other after-cruise plans; in our case, it was a six-day stay in London. So, we had to scramble to restore our United Airlines flight from London back to Newark the following Sunday, and we needed to be flown from Oslo into Heathrow, not Gatwick. Randy Gillespie, our personal travel agent, was wonderfully helpful booking us from Oslo to Heathrow. (It became obvious to us that the most experienced passengers used a travel agent, as did we.) We called the Marriott in London to see if we could check in a day early, which we could and did.
Some have called us – the passengers – “ heros ,” but it was the Captain and crew who deserve the kudos. We were only reacting to what we were told, but they did the best they could in the face of a very difficult situation. Thankfully, what could have been a disaster was avoided by the intelligent thinking of the Captain. We later read that two Norwegian river pilots were aboard to advise the captain. It was reported they said they would have never left port or would have turned around because of the rough seas. If that’s true, why didn’t they tell the Captain?
Two days later, while we were in London, we heard that the cause of the engine failure had been determined. The extreme pitching and rolling of the ship had prevented enough lubricating fluid from getting to the engines, and they shut off (as designed).
Mr. Hagan and Viking said they would cooperate with the investigating agencies. We are sure they will. What could have been a disaster for Viking (repeatedly voted the #1 ocean cruise line by readers of Travel & Leisure magazine) will be a “learning” experience.
We are now home, safe and sound and looking forward to our Viking Ocean cruise to South America next year.
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Just stumble on your amazing story.
A crisis well managed by the crew and co-operative passengers.